Fish chefs transform into bacon, pastrami, and cracklings

The Creative Transformation of Swordfish

It's one of the most fascinating aspects of modern culinary innovation: transforming a single ingredient into something entirely new. While many chefs focus on repurposing leftovers, some have taken this concept even further by reimagining entire food items. One such example is the swordfish belly, which has become a surprising substitute for traditional pork products like bacon, pastrami, and Bolognese sauce.

Why Swordfish Is Becoming a Pork Alternative

The reason behind this shift lies in the unique characteristics of swordfish. Compared to other fish, it's denser and less flaky, with a higher fat content that closely resembles that of pork. This makes it an ideal candidate for substitution in various recipes without requiring any adjustments. Chef Michael Nelson, owner of GW Fins in New Orleans, Louisiana, has been at the forefront of this movement. His restaurant specializes in using swordfish to create dishes traditionally made with pork, such as andouille sausage and muffaletta. Other restaurants, like Bayonet in Birmingham, Alabama, have followed suit by offering Reuben sandwiches with pastrami made from swordfish belly.

This trend isn't just about flavor — it's also about sustainability. Nelson noted that his restaurant initially struggled with waste, as only about 23% to 28% of the swordfish they purchased was usable. To combat this, he began experimenting with creative ways to use the leftover parts, starting with fish charcuterie and later developing swordfish belly bacon and cracklings. These efforts not only reduce food waste but also help preserve the swordfish population, which has seen a rebound after years of overfishing.

The Controversy Surrounding Swordfish Consumption

Despite these benefits, there are concerns about consuming swordfish. One major issue is its high mercury content — approximately six times that found in a can of tuna. This makes it one of the 13 seafood items that experts advise against ordering at a restaurant. Additionally, swordfish is known to carry parasitic worms that must be eliminated through proper cooking or freezing. However, these methods can render the fish inedible, leading some to avoid it altogether.

Chef Michael Nelson claims that sourcing swordfish from the Gulf of Mexico (renamed the Gulf of America in 2025 by U.S. President Donald Trump) reduces mercury levels. However, there is little evidence to support this claim. Many environmental and governmental agencies still caution against eating large amounts of swordfish from the Gulf due to mercury concerns.

Balancing Innovation and Caution

While the culinary world continues to explore the potential of swordfish as a sustainable alternative to pork, consumers must weigh the benefits against the risks. Chefs like Nelson are pushing the boundaries of what's possible in the kitchen, but it's essential to remain informed about the environmental and health implications of such choices.

For those interested in staying updated on food and drink trends, joining newsletters and following trusted sources can provide valuable insights into the latest developments in the culinary world. Whether you're a chef, a food enthusiast, or simply someone who loves good eats, the journey of swordfish from ocean to plate offers a compelling look at the intersection of creativity, sustainability, and health.